Azelaic Acid: Why it’s one of my favourite ingredients in an effective skincare regime

Azelaic Acid is fast becoming recognised as a powerhouse ingredient in skincare and for good reason.

It’s incredibly versatile and lends itself to tackling multiple skin issues including pigmentation, rosacea, redness, inflammation, acne and uneven skin tone. And the good news is that it is still a gentle enough product to be tolerated by sensitive skin.

 

What is it?

Unlike other exfoliating acids (such as AHAs and BHAs), it is a dicarboxylic acid, typically synthetically created when used in skincare.

It works deep within the skin with an anti-inflammatory and anti-redness effect whilst reducing cell turnover and targeting pigment producing cells.

 

What does it do?

Azelaic acid is such a versatile product which makes it a fantastic go-to product for a variety of skin concerns. It is:

  • Antibacterial
  • Anti inflammatory
  • Exfoliating
  • Tyrosinase inhibiting (pigmentation reduction))

What strength do I use?

Azelaic Acid is available in both cosmetic and presciption strength formulations:

Cosmetic (10%)

Suitable for daily use as part of a skincare regime to treat mild issues.

Prescription (15-20%)

A stronger treatment, used under supervision, for more moderate issues with Acne or Rosacea.

Indications for use

  1. Acne 
  2. Rosacea
  3. Hyperpigmentation/dyschromia
  4. Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation 
  5. Uneven skin tone and dull skin

How do I use it?

Start slowly and it can be built up to twice daily application.

Use along with a broad spectrum high factor SpF as there can be sun sensitivity.

Azelaic acid can be used as part of a comprehensive skincare routine with additional “actives” but proceed with caution if your skin is sensitive and use only in the morning, with retinol used at night, if irritation is occurring with dual application.

My choices:

Anua 10% Azelaic Acid with Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a firm favourite.

Paula’s choice 10% Azelaic Acid Skin booster.

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%.

The Inkey List 10% Azelaic Acid Serum.

Whether for acne management, rosacea control, or brightening uneven, dull skin, Azelaic Acid can be an excellent addition to skincare regimes.

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